Pigments VS Dyes - What's the Difference, When to use each in Soap Making!

Posted on 20 Jun 14:28 , 0 comments

Pigments - Dyes - Neon Pigments

A little about each and when to use them. 

Little Girl Makes Bathing Crystals But it goes wrong!

Posted on 20 Jun 13:59 , 0 comments

So easy to make bath Salts - a little girl can show you how even when it goes wrong !


What is the difference between a LAKE and a DYE, a PIGMENT and a Mica

Posted on 21 May 16:12 , 7 comments

We use 4 main types of colourants: Lakes, Dyes, Pigments and Micas - So What's the difference?

Lakes and Dyes will both "dye" or colour to term more correctly, however generally "dyes" are water soluble and "lakes" are oil dispersal.


A dye is a chemical that shows color when it is dissolved. They are water soluble and may not mix with oils. Dyes can be bought in a granular version and a dusty light powder form and also a liquid form. Renascent Bath and Body offer you either POWDER Dyes or LIQUID Dyes.

They will easily disperse and not settle therefore are the perfect choice to use in liquid soaps.

Our dyes are Certified “D&C” Colors meaning they can be used in Drugs and Cosmetics, but not in Foods.

Our dyes are found here:

A DYE is a distinct product that shows coloring power as it is dissolved.
Dyes are water soluble, and will not readily mix with oils. 

Benefits of Dye Colors:

  • Easily dissoluble in water, MP soap (can colour morph and fade) and Liquid Soap
  • Will not settle out of suspension
  • The best choice for colouring liquid soaps
  • A drop goes a long way

Our dyes are found here:



A LAKE PIGMENT is an insoluble material that colours by dispersion.

Lakes are basically a pigment which has been manufactured from a dye by precipitating a soluble dye with a metallic salt. The resulting pigment is called a lake pigment.

Lakes are produced from the FD&C Dyes and are oil dispersible (but generally not oil soluble) and as such they can be mixed with oils, fats and sugars. They can also be dispersed in other carriers such as propylene glycol, glycerin and sucrose (water and sugar).

Lakes are created in specific concentrations of the Dye which is used.

As an example, Red 40 Aluminum Lake is available in Low Dye (generally 15-17% pure dye) and High Dye (36-42% pure dye).

We use the lakes to colour our balms to produce tinted lip gloss or even lipstick, however they can be used to colour MP soap base if blended properly.

Our Lakes are Certified “FD&C” Colors - can generally be used in Foods, Drugs, and Cosmetics. (For any edible or lip based product, you must use FD&C products.

Lakes are generally preferred in several applications, including: To color an oil based product, such as balm base, chocolate or compound coatings.


Lakes are generally colour stable, meaning they resist bleeding.

Dyes have a tendency to “bleed”, or migrate from one part of the product to another. A red and white soap, may therefore become all pink int he future if dyes were used. Likewise with colour swirled lip balms or candy canes or any product where there are specific colour borders or stripes. In many cases Dyes can be used in confectionery production, Lakes will be substituted if bleeding is a problem.

Benefits of Lake Food Colors:

  • Lake food colors are highly adaptable and versatile: They can be dispersed in suspension of propylene glycol or sucrose. 
  • Lake colors are stable: Much more stable than water-soluble dye colors.
  • Lake colors can be utilised to color many varieties of products and are commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
  • Lakes are available in different concentrations of colors. 
  • Lake colors are oil soluble and can be mixed in vegetable oils, fats, other cosmetic oils etc.

 Our lakes are found here:



Mica is a naturally occurring collection of silicate minerals. It is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products.

Mica, named from muscovite mica is used to add sparkle and shine in MP Soap Making, makeup, nail products and skin care products.

Micas can be natural or synthetic (man-made)

Our Mica's are found here:



Soap Pigments are essentially oxides. Although many pigments were once collected from the earth, for consistency and safety they are now replicated synthetically in a lab. The FDA enforced this creation as many pigments mined naturally included toxic materials that are deemed unsafe. Lab created pigments will produce beautiful colours safely

Pigments are stable in all soap making processes, are inexpensive and come in a large selection of colors. Pigments will be the best color source for swirls and layers as they will not bleed at all.

Our Pigments are found here:


For those who want more scientific terms *Taken from wikipedia:

What is a color lake?
A lake pigment is a pigment manufactured by precipitating a dye with an inert binder, or "mordant", usually a metallic salt. Unlike vermilion, ultramarine, and other pigments made from ground minerals, lake pigments are organic

What is aluminum lake colors?
According to the FDA, lakes are formed by reacting straight dyes (such as FD&C Green No. 3) with precipitants and salts. Aluminum is often a component. Lakes may be used as color additives for tablet coatings due to their stability, and may also be used for cosmetics such as eye shadows.

What is the difference between a dye and pigment?
Dyes and pigments are substances that impart color to a material. The term colorant is often used for both dyes (also called dyestuffs) and pigments. The major difference between dyes and pigments is the particle size. Therefore dyes are not UV stable whereas pigments are usually UV stable.



Smaller molecules Larger molecules
Chemically bind to a material to become part of the material Stick to the surface of the material like a coating
May attach and become part of the material depending on the chemical nature of the fibres Retain a Crystaline or particulate structure
In natural form have a consistency like Inc In natural form have a thicker consistency like paint
* Auxochrome Not * Auxochrome
Generally requires no binding agent

Generally requires a binding agent

Mostly organic

Mostly inorganic

Light reflects 

Light absorbs

Regular reflection

Diffuse reflection

Selectively colours fibres

Colours or fibres

Not UV stable

Generally UV stable

Absorbs into fibres

Coats the outside of fibres

Dissolves in liquid

Held in suspension in liquid

Often fades and colour morphs

Generally fade proof and colour stable

*An auxochrome is a functional group of atoms with one or more lone pairs of electrons when attached to a chromophore, alters both the wavelength and intensity of absorption.

Pigments can be both synthetic which is generally made from coal tars and petrochemicals or inorganic produced through chemical reactions notably oxidisation which is often found naturally as earths.


 When do you recommend using each:

PIGMENTS: For colouring Bath and Body products:

  • Soaps: MP (Melt and Pour), CP (Cold Processed), HP (Hot Process)
  • Bathing Crystals
  • Available in Liquid and Powder form - from 1gm - 1 Litre
  • Less likely to stain bathtubs (if using in bath bombs or bathing crystals you can add a little polysorbate 80 to prevent it staining the tub)

DYES: For colouring Liquid products:

  • Liquid Soaps
  • Available in Liquid and Powder form - from 1gm - 1 Litre
  • More likely to stain bathtubs, a few drops in liquid soap will easily wash away as used (if using in bath bombs or bathing crystals you can add a little polysorbate 80 to prevent it staining the tub)
  • Bath Bombs / Bath Fizzies

LAKES: For colouring edible products:

  • Edible Products
  • Lip Balms
  • Lipsticks
  • Cupcakes, Frosting
  • Chocolates
  • Available in Powder form - from 1gm Vials

MICAS: For colouring and adding a sparkle and shimmer:

  • Cosmetic Products
  • Eye Shadow, Mineral Make up
  • Soaps: MP (Melt and Pour), CP (Cold Processed), HP (Hot Process)
  • Bathing Crystals
  • Bath Bombs / Bath Fizzies
  • Can be blended through the melted soap base, dry brushed on to the finished product or dry brushed into the mould before the soap is poured in.
  • *If used in liquid soaps, the liquid will need to be thickened or the Mica will settle to the base of the product. A suspending reagent may be required.
  • Renascent Bath and Body also stock edible Micas which can be used as above in the Lakes *Please note not all our Mica's are edible, only those stating "edible".
  • Available in Powder form - from 1gm - 1 KG

Milk Bath - Cleopatra recipes - make your own!

Posted on 17 Mar 22:01 , 2 comments

Powdered Milk Bath in a Jar recipe

  • 1 cup Milk Bath Powder SKIN CARE & BASE PRODUCTS 
  • * Do not use shop bought full cream milk powder - it will quickly go rancid, however if you wish to make up a batch to use the same day for your own use, it may be possible (not recommended)
  • 5 to 8 drops scented oil -perfume oil or essential oil AROMATHERAPY OILS / Fragrant Oils 
  • A few drops of Renascent Pigment Dyes if desired DYES - PIGMENT & EDIBLE 
  • Half a tsp Cosmetic Shimmers (if desired) COSMETIC SHIMMERS
  • Mix dry milk bath powder with oil.
  • Mix well.
  • Add more oil for a stronger scent.
  • Place in a container for gift giving.
  • Include a card with directions:
  • To use, add a tablespoon to running bath water, relax, delight - your skin will be soft & smooth

Bath Bombs / Bath Fizzies Instructions

Posted on 24 Sep 22:09 , 2 comments

Ahhh, relax, lay back and allow the lovely bubbles to fill your bath from your own hand made Bath Bombs 

Whether you create some bathing bliss for yourself, your friends or set up a business (within 1 hour) with your new skills you can be assured of the quality & integrity of your products. 

Using the Renascent bath & Body Bath Bombs/Fizzies kit or supplies it is remarkably easy to create your very own special “bathing bliss” items. 

* Some latex or vinyl gloves for sanitary and protective purposes, you should always wear gloves when making bath bombs as the citric acid will sting if it gets into cuts or scratches. Eye protection is advised as fine powders can be very irritating to the eyes. A Dust mask is advised as the fine powders can be irritating if breathed in.

Click HERE to buy the kit - Including Bath Bomb Recipes

Step 1 – Preparing the area / items:            

Very little preparation is required to create your own beautiful bathing bomb/fizzie. Set out your ingredients, colours, fragrances & additives (if desired). Select a bowl that won’t matter if it gets stained by some of the colours. Glass is best (non reactive)

Fill the spray mister bottle with water and add about 6 drops of coloring.

Step 2 (Using Half your supplies that come in the kit)

¼  cup of powdered citric acid (40gm)

¼  cup of cornstarch or soap dough powder (40gm)

½ cup of baking soda / Bicarbonate of Soda (80gm)

Sift all dry ingredients through a sieve to remove chunks.

Step 3 Mixing

Add a few drops of Pigment colour or Mica Powder to your powdered mix and whisk. Spray mist a few squirts of water carefully whisking so it does not fizz. Using your fingers, gently squeeze to check the consistency of powder; when it can be tightly packed or shaped, stop spritzing (this may take a little while). It should feel like slightly damp sand. Add a few drops of your fragrant/essential oil. Mix well. 

Optional – Add Botanicals / Shimmer / Glitter:

If you wish to add botanicals or flower petals, & / or Cosmetic grade glitter / shimmers gently mix them in or place in mould.

Step 4 Moulding & Setting

Firmly pack mixture into molds. Press together very firmly

Anything can be used as a mould, try ice cube trays, chocolate moulds, jelly moulds, etc. Turn mould over & tap with a spoon to release bath bomb. (If it breaks it may be too dry, whisk with a little more water and try again). Too wet & it will expand, rather than setting in shape.

Allow mixture to set for at least 2 hours (can be sped up to 1hour in the freezer), then pop out carefully. Repeat with remaining powder.

Step 5 – Packaging:  

Once you have created your gorgeous bathing bliss fizzies, you can pop into a bag / jar / fabric cloth / noodle box or any other ideas. Seal in a bag with a ribbon – prevent damp air getting to them which may cause the fizzing process to begin.

When set hard, pop into a plastic bag, twist tie the ribbon on, you can cut off the seal part if you prefer the look.

To get you started & looking professional we have included some lovely full colour gloss printable paper you can use to print labels for your packaging finesse.  

*Note: Alternative colors such as food grade colors, are not recommended as the colors may not ‘fix’ to the salts as well, causing people to slightly dye their skin when using the salts. Also certain food grade colors will fade in different lighting, eg – certain colors fade when exposed to sunlight, others when exposed to moonlight. Food dyes may  ‘bleed’ into each other after mixing is completed if you wish to use 2 colours in the one package and may stain baths. The Renascent pigments have been especially formulated to blend well and remain true in soap /candle / craft making.

Bathing Crystals So Easy A Child Could Do It

Posted on 29 Sep 00:27 , 0 comments

If you think the thought of making Bathing Crystals (also known as Bath Salts, Bath Soaks, Foot Soaks, Foot Baths) is too difficult, we would love to share a video made by our little friend (when she was much smaller) to get you started.


To get you Started all you will need is:

  • Food Grade Rock Salt
  • Renascent Bath & Body Pigment/Dyes
  • Renascent Bath & Body Fragrances or Essence Oils
  • Renascent Bath & Body Cosmetic Shimmers/Micas or Cosmetic Glitters (optional)
  • A mixing bowl or plastic bag (to shake it up in)
  • Some bags/jars to put your finished Bathing Crystals in