OH goodness, you folks said "Oh don't worry if your filming of a swirl technique is not good enough" You may be sorry - I think I had touched the camera with soapy fingers and its all frosted and then I tried to turn it off and filmed my dface sideways at the end - Oh dear! I promise I will get better at this. This was something new I was trying and theres 2 more videos after this I will get up 0 the 2nd is the cut and the 3rd is nailing it a different way. I will also get one up with normal swirls soon <3 https://youtu.be/ZtPtK_1A8hwhttps://youtu.be/ZtPtK_1A8hw
Don't pay $14.95 for shampoo bars - make your own for a fraction of the price, using a Renascent Bath Body high quality melt and pour soap base. Here's a super easy recipe to follow along and create your own SOLID SHAMPOO BARS.
For Australians that need to register (if you use bases from a registered Australian company you do not need to, as long as your supplier is registered).
For those that do need to register, I will be meeting with the NICNAS team again next week directly in relation to soap makers. However for now, here's few important points:
ALL passwords on the site expire after 45 days, you will need a new one every 45 days and you cannot use the same one, it must be at least 10 characters long (it's a coding problem they are working on)
When you click to change your password, there's a lag of up to several hours before it resets, during this time it will look like it is working but in fact it isn't, you can only reset your password once in 24-48 hours, so if you keep resetting you may end up in a loop which will lock you out (again a coding glitch)
The lowest price bracket is $138 (if you are spending less than $125,000 per year - so the figure you put won't change your premium if under this amount
There are new categories of chemicals on the website, however for the most of us we can simply put "nothing changed since last year"
It is an annual fee starting and ending at this time of the year, regardless of when you apply to join
*Please note, all of this information is purely from my own personal experiences and may or may not be accurate or relevant to you, it is offered as an insight guide only and we ask you to seek professional assistance to make the correct choice for yourself.
I have heard of child labour being used in mining and negative effects on the skin!
NATURAL MICA:
The mica group is a group of naturally occurring minerals. They represents 37 phyllosilicate minerals that have a layered or platy texture. The commercially important micas are muscovite and phlogopite, which are used in a variety of applications.
SYNTHETIC MICA:
Synthetic mica aims to replicate the effect and appearance of the Natural Mica, whilst alleviating the negative or toxic minerals that can be found in some naturally occurring minerals and also the human rights conditions and concerns associated with some of the mining of natural micas
Synthetic Mica is the name generally used for a range of glistening pigments - blended together creating Sparkly colour in other products.
They can be used in soap making. Bathing Crystals, bath bombs or make up.
Synthetic Mica may produce more vivid colours and actually be brighter than than naturally occurring mica. A skin added bonus is that synthetic Mica does not contain any sharp edges that may microscopically tear or damage the skin.
Some companies claim traceable mica that is mined without the use of child labour however the supply chain of this has proven somewhat difficult. As such it is easier purchasing a synthetic variety to avoid human rights violations.
Synthetic mica is also sometimes labelled as “synthetic fluorphlogopite”. This relates to a synthetic mica which is generally white or grey in appearance. Covered evenly with titanium dioxide, (naturally occurring white pigment), this blending gives the appearance of a pearl like sparkle and shine, enhancing colours when used in combination with other synthetic mica pigments.
WHAT ABOUT PLASTIC?
By utilising certified synthetic and natural mica, we can ensure they are free from PET plastic glitter.
As such, they are biodegradable, safe pigments with no concerns regarding landfill, or waterways concerns.
Plastic glitters are often known as microplastics or microbeads.
Ultimately, these end up in the food chain in oceans. A huge concern is the presence of plastics in our oceans and consumption by marine life and the health of ocean ecosystems.
Should you require a lovely natural and completely biodegradable exfoliant in your skin and body products, we also offer a finely ground organic rice powder. As well as being biodegradable, it is organic and nourishes the skin. Should it find its way into the ocean, it will simply provide organic food for the oceans.
By utilising cosmetic grade glitter you will achieve perfect colours in your products, they are stable and will not bleed or migrate like many craft glitters, clean up is easier, and they are far less irritating on the skin.
BIODEGRADABLE GLITTER
Biodegradable glitter is generally made using cellulose from plants, hence it is PET free
It is fairly colour stable although can fade and bleed in high PH products, it is sometimes not colour stable in acrylics and nail polish, which will require the cosmetic grade glitter.
It requires various components to break down and will usually be fine kept in a dry jar, although it is best is a cool, dark storage.
LUSTRES
Edible products and lip balms require the addition of lustres rather than Mica. Lustres are a blending of food colourings and synthetic mica. We offer a range of edible lustres that are perfect in your lip balms.
*Please note, this information is provided to the best of our knowledge and for informational purposes only. Individuals must determine the suitability of these products for their own specific purposes and information may be changed/updated as new situations come to light. We encourage individuals to seek independent advice.
We use 4 main types of colourants: Lakes, Dyes, Pigments and Micas - So What's the difference?
Lakes and Dyes will both "dye" or colour to term more correctly, however generally "dyes" are water soluble and "lakes" are oil dispersal.
DYES:
A dye is a chemical that shows color when it is dissolved. They are water soluble and may not mix with oils. Dyes can be bought in a granular version and a dusty light powder form and also a liquid form. Renascent Bath and Body offer you either POWDER Dyes or LIQUID Dyes.
They will easily disperse and not settle therefore are the perfect choice to use in liquid soaps.
Our dyes are Certified “D&C” Colors meaning they can be used in Drugs and Cosmetics, but not in Foods.
Our dyes are found here: https://www.renascentbathbody.com.au/collections/dyes
A DYE is a distinct product that shows coloring power as it is dissolved. Dyes are water soluble, and will not readily mix with oils.
Benefits of Dye Colors:
Easily dissoluble in water, MP soap (can colour morph and fade) and Liquid Soap
Will not settle out of suspension
The best choice for colouring liquid soaps
A drop goes a long way
Our dyes are found here: https://www.renascentbathbody.com.au/collections/dyes
A LAKE PIGMENT is an insoluble material that colours by dispersion.
Lakes are basically a pigment which has been manufactured from a dye by precipitating a soluble dye with a metallic salt. The resulting pigment is called a lake pigment.
Lakes are produced from the FD&C Dyes and are oil dispersible (but generally not oil soluble) and as such they can be mixed with oils, fats and sugars. They can also be dispersed in other carriers such as propylene glycol, glycerin and sucrose (water and sugar).
Lakes are created in specific concentrations of the Dye which is used.
As an example, Red 40 Aluminum Lake is available in Low Dye (generally 15-17% pure dye) and High Dye (36-42% pure dye).
We use the lakes to colour our balms to produce tinted lip gloss or even lipstick, however they can be used to colour MP soap base if blended properly.
Our Lakes are Certified “FD&C” Colors - can generally be used in Foods, Drugs, and Cosmetics. (For any edible or lip based product, you must use FD&C products.
Lakes are generally preferred in several applications, including: To color an oil based product, such as balm base, chocolate or compound coatings.
COLOUR STABILITY:
Lakes are generally colour stable, meaning they resist bleeding.
Dyes have a tendency to “bleed”, or migrate from one part of the product to another. A red and white soap, may therefore become all pink int he future if dyes were used. Likewise with colour swirled lip balms or candy canes or any product where there are specific colour borders or stripes. In many cases Dyes can be used in confectionery production, Lakes will be substituted if bleeding is a problem.
Benefits of Lake Food Colors:
Lake food colors are highly adaptable and versatile: They can be dispersed in suspension of propylene glycol or sucrose.
Lake colors are stable: Much more stable than water-soluble dye colors.
Lake colors can be utilised to color many varieties of products and are commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
Lakes are available in different concentrations of colors.
Lake colors are oil soluble and can be mixed in vegetable oils, fats, other cosmetic oils etc.
Our lakes are found here: https://www.renascentbathbody.com.au/collections/edible-colours
Soap Pigments are essentially oxides. Although many pigments were once collected from the earth, for consistency and safety they are now replicated synthetically in a lab. The FDA enforced this creation as many pigments mined naturally included toxic materials that are deemed unsafe. Lab created pigments will produce beautiful colours safely
Pigments are stable in all soap making processes, are inexpensive and come in a large selection of colors. Pigments will be the best color source for swirls and layers as they will not bleed at all.
Our Pigments are found here: https://www.renascentbathbody.com.au/collections/pigments-dyes
For those who want more scientific terms *Taken from wikipedia:
What is a color lake? A lake pigment is a pigment manufactured by precipitating a dye with an inert binder, or "mordant", usually a metallic salt. Unlike vermilion, ultramarine, and other pigments made from ground minerals, lake pigments are organic
What is aluminum lake colors? According to the FDA, lakes are formed by reacting straight dyes (such as FD&C Green No. 3) with precipitants and salts. Aluminum is often a component. Lakes may be used as color additives for tablet coatings due to their stability, and may also be used for cosmetics such as eye shadows.
What is the difference between a dye and pigment? Dyes and pigments are substances that impart color to a material. The term colorant is often used for both dyes (also called dyestuffs) and pigments. The major difference between dyes and pigments is the particle size. Therefore dyes are not UV stable whereas pigments are usually UV stable.
Dyes
Pigments
Smaller molecules
Larger molecules
Chemically bind to a material to become part of the material
Stick to the surface of the material like a coating
May attach and become part of the material depending on the chemical nature of the fibres
Retain a Crystaline or particulate structure
In natural form have a consistency like Inc
In natural form have a thicker consistency like paint
* Auxochrome
Not * Auxochrome
Generally requires no binding agent
Generally requires a binding agent
Mostly organic
Mostly inorganic
Light reflects
Light absorbs
Regular reflection
Diffuse reflection
Selectively colours fibres
Colours or fibres
Not UV stable
Generally UV stable
Absorbs into fibres
Coats the outside of fibres
Dissolves in liquid
Held in suspension in liquid
Often fades and colour morphs
Generally fade proof and colour stable
*An auxochrome is a functional group of atoms with one or more lone pairs of electrons when attached to a chromophore, alters both the wavelength and intensity of absorption.
Pigments can be both synthetic which is generally made from coal tars and petrochemicals or inorganic produced through chemical reactions notably oxidisation which is often found naturally as earths.
Soaps: MP (Melt and Pour), CP (Cold Processed), HP (Hot Process)
Bathing Crystals
Available in Liquid and Powder form - from 1gm - 1 Litre
Less likely to stain bathtubs (if using in bath bombs or bathing crystals you can add a little polysorbate 80 to prevent it staining the tub)
DYES: For colouring Liquid products:
Liquid Soaps
Available in Liquid and Powder form - from 1gm - 1 Litre
More likely to stain bathtubs, a few drops in liquid soap will easily wash away as used (if using in bath bombs or bathing crystals you can add a little polysorbate 80 to prevent it staining the tub)
Bath Bombs / Bath Fizzies
LAKES: For colouring edible products:
Edible Products
Lip Balms
Lipsticks
Cupcakes, Frosting
Chocolates
Available in Powder form - from 1gm Vials
MICAS: For colouring and adding a sparkle and shimmer:
Cosmetic Products
Eye Shadow, Mineral Make up
Soaps: MP (Melt and Pour), CP (Cold Processed), HP (Hot Process)
Bathing Crystals
Bath Bombs / Bath Fizzies
Can be blended through the melted soap base, dry brushed on to the finished product or dry brushed into the mould before the soap is poured in.
*If used in liquid soaps, the liquid will need to be thickened or the Mica will settle to the base of the product. A suspending reagent may be required.
Renascent Bath and Body also stock edible Micas which can be used as above in the Lakes *Please note not all our Mica's are edible, only those stating "edible".
Making MP Melt and pour soaps is so easy and most of all it is great fun:
Firstly we will discuss how to make your soap and then some of the benefits and other options available
Step 1 – Preparing the area & melting the soap base:
Inside the basic kit you will have a 500gm block of Renascent Melt & Pour soap. You will need a double boiler or heat source, such as a microwave. This can be a smaller saucepan inside a larger one (with water in it) or a stainless steel bowl on top of the sauce pan. A gentle heat source directly in a pot or a microwave oven. If using a microwave, (all vary in heat) try around 30 second bursts on medium - high, then stir & pop back in if required.
1. Make sure there is some water in the base of the double boiler 2. Roughly chop up the desired quantity of soap you wish to melt and place it in the top of the double boiler (away from the water). 3. Over a reasonably low heat, allow your soap to melt, gently stirring as you go 4. If using a microwave, take away plastic food containers are good for melting in
* if it is not hot enough it will begin to set as your pour it, too hot, you will evaporate your fragrance.
Your soap can be melted again once or twice if this happens. Each time you remelt your soap it will remove some of the water and provide a firmer (more long lasting) soap, however as you have evaporated the water away, you will have slightly less soap. You may like to add a little water as it remelts.
Step 2 – Add Colors / Fragrance: Once the soap has melted you can add colors, fragrances, buttermilk powder or florals if desired. Ensure that the soap is gently heated as the hotter it is the more rapidly your fragrance will evaporate. 1. Add a few drops of your chosen fragrance / essential oil(s), smell and apply to your own preference. *Take care – if you take a deep breath and your oils are evaporating, you will inhale them and this can be most uncomfortable. 2. Add a few drops of your chosen Renascent Soap pigment, you can mix the pigments to achieve different colors. *Note – if your colours are not bright enough – simply add a little more
Alternative colors can be used, such as food grade colors or dyes, however the colors may not ‘fix’ to the soap as well, causing people to slightly dye their skin on using the finished soap. Also certain food grade colors will fade in different lighting, eg – certain colors fade when exposed to sunlight, others when exposed to moonlight. Over time food dyes will ‘bleed’ into the color next to them also. The Renascent soap pigments have been especially formulated to blend well and remain true in soap making. *Take care – you will only need a drop or 2 for lighter colors, you can always add more as you go.
Step 3 – Add Botanicals: · If you wish to add botanicals or flower petals, gently mix them through. (See further suggestions for this, later on in this booklet). *Remember, botanicals will sink to the bottom of your mold in most cases and if you use a lot of very fine botanicals, they can become caught in body hair when using the soap and create an unpleasant experience. Gluggy botanicals like oats, may clog up the drain as they are used – take care to add only a little.
They will also mostly go brown inside yours soaps and are therefore probably best scattered on the top of finished soaps.
Step 4 – Add Mica Shimmers / Additives: If you wish to add shimmers, gently mix them through or paint into your mould before pouring to provide a luxurious effect.
Step 5 – Molding: 1. Ladle or gently pour your melted soap into the provided (cup) molds or see the further suggestions in this booklet. 2. Place aside to set. If you are in a hurry you can place in the fridge, however this may cause some sweating on their removal. Allow to set for at least 15 minutes until cold to the touch & firm.
Step 6 – Unmolding: 1. Turn mold upside down and gently press in the centre, the soap should easily release and come away from the mold, leaving you with a shiny beautifully finished cake of soap. Allow to harden for at least a day and then delight in a beautiful bathing experience.
Q. My favourite !!! How much soap will 1kg make? A: About a kg of soap!! If your molds take 100gm then around 10 soap bars (generally 10-30 soaps per 1 kg)
Q. My soap has little ‘beads' of water all over it A. - If you melt it over too high a heat / too quickly, or cool too quickly (eg - freezer) when your soap sets it will form ‘beads' of sweat on the soap and ruin the appearance. Your soap can be melted again once or twice if this happens. This only happens with soap that has a high glycerine quantity, the Renascent melt & pour soap base has no glycerine to prevent this occurring.
Q. How do I know how much pigment to use A. Keeping this in mind, your colors (if used) will lighten slightly on setting so you may like to have them a little darker than desired at the melting stage. Just add according to what shade looks right.
Q. When I unmolded my soap, it wasn't quite set & I ruined it A. Your soap can be melted again once or twice if this happens.
Q. Do I need to purchase the full Renascent Soap Making kit again? A. Renascent supply 1 kg blocks of Melt & Mold soap, essential oils, fragrant oils, Molds, Colors and many other items, in person & mail order. If you wish to build a soap making business, you can even speak to us about a wholesale account.
Q. My soap doesn't last very long? A. - The Melt and Pour Soap Bases will use up (just slightly) more quickly than commercial soaps, if you wish to prolong it's life, ensure it is kept fairly dry between uses & allow to stand a longer time (up to 3-4 months) to harden. If manufacturing professionally, a dehumidifier will dry the moisture out of your soap & greatly prolong it's life. Sadly, often the more ‘natural' soaps do disappear more quickly but they seem to be much kinder to the skin and personally that is a choice I happily make. Our new Ultra Clear, Ultra White and Goats Milk are really long lasting soaps.
Q. My Soap Art Soap is too nice to use? A. - It's so nice, how could you not use it? We think they are too nice not to use. Life's short - Use the good soap!
We’ve listed some of the pros and cons of Melt & Pour and Cold Process soap making below:
We Love the many CP soaps available and many soapers love making CP, however it is quite an art and takes, time, effort and a degree of care and skill – not everyone wants to and can make soaps this way and of course there is the concern of what if I get an order for 400 soaps with a full 4 weeks cure time, but, there is an alternative way to make soap using ‘Melt & Pour’ bases.
Renascent Bath and Body stock a range of melt and pour bases, which are exactly as they say, you simply melt, pour, set and use, so your order for 400 soaps may well have you up making all night long, but it can be done.
These melt and pour soap bases eliminate the ‘saponification’ process (it's all done for you) – so all you need to do is melt, mix, pour and set (and perhaps decorate if desired) to produce your very own style of soap art and a lovely range of finished products.
